Buckskin Gulch/Paria Canyon, Utah

After arriving back in Flagstaff from Alaska and pulling what I would need for the next 2 months out of my storage unit and into my car, I headed up to southern Utah. Listed as one of the most dangerous hikes in the U.S. and boasted as possibly the longest and deepest slot canyon in the world, Buckskin Gulch made it on my to-do list. And I wanted to do it before monsoon season. So here's my story.
I left Page Wednesday morning headed about 30 miles West to the Paria contact station. I picked up my permit (they only allow 20 overnighters a day) and got the latest weather update- 30% chance of storms (it had been 20% chance every day). Then I drove 2 miles down to the White House Trailhead to leave my car where I would finish. I chose to bike the 15 miles to Wire Pass Trailhead rather than paying the ridiculous $75 shuttle fee. I wore my pack and struggled in the 100 degree heat but finally made it to Wire Pass 3 hours later. I locked my bike up and started the 13.5 mile hike to the Paria River Confluence. Once you're in the slot canyon you are committed; there is no way out except the way you came or to keep going. That's why if it flash floods (which it does often) you're in trouble. That's how people get killed. 

It was muddy in the canyon and there were several pools of stagnant stinky water to cross. Luckily by using my hiking poles I was able to bypass deeper parts but still waded through water above my knees. Also it was a bit cooler in the canyon because it was shaded and at times felt like I was hiking in a cave. 

On the way to Buckskin Gulch

 

The muddy trail

 

Narrow canyon

Flash Flood Debris

Looks can be deceiving-this pool is deeper than you think

Hiking in a wider section of the Gulch

 

Mud coated legs and feet

I expected to get to the confluence around 6 but 6 came and went and so did 7 and 8. I started getting nervous then at 8:30 I came across an area where the canyon splits, but I dismissed it as the confluence because no one else was camping there and it was not what I imagined the area to look like, so I kept going. I kept going till 9 when I had to stop because I couldn't see well anymore. I was a bit freaked out and felt pretty low and alone. After cleaning up, I set up my tent and tried to sleep but then it started thundering, lightening, and raining lightly. And of course I did not bring my rain cover. Eventually I had to pull out my tent's footprint and use that as a tarp over the tent to keep me dry from the rain. I didn't get much sleep that night because I was paranoid about the rain and flash floods. In the morning I was more calm and rational and decided to head back to the split because that had to be the confluence. I got to the split and headed down and was reassured that was the right way, headed up the dry Paria River. I took a break at 9 and as I was packing up I heard a noise in the canyon. I thought it was a strong wind channeling down the canyon but it kept going and eventually I looked around the rock and saw black sludge coming toward me. Instantly I knew it was a flash flood. Then I was like where did this come from? It didn't rain enough to cause this! (Bryce Canyon is the headwaters for Paria so it must have rained heavy there). So I quickly jumped up on the rock to get to a high point cause I wasn't sure how high the water would get. As I watched the mud water and logs flow down the canyon I knew I would be stuck there for several hours until the water subsided. [Check out this video of the Flash Flood] 

The start of the flash flood

After watching the water I knew it wasn't going to go any higher so I went back down to the ledge and got comfortable. To pass the time I tried to sleep, read, and just sat there. 

Reading while waiting for the flood water to subside

Eventually, 9 hours later at 6PM I decided to go. The current had lessened and I was confident that I could cross to the other side. While I was crossing I went down into a hole and the water was up to my belly button but I was able to cross. From then on I crossed the water to one bank and then to the other back and forth until the canyon widened out and the sandy banks got longer. The water got shallower and it became easier to cross. After an hour I camped for the night. 

The Canyon widening out

However I wasn't able to sleep due to my toe throbbing from where my dead toenail had mud all under it. The next morning I got up and hiked the last 3 miles out to my car. It was a relief when I finally made it- a day later than expected. I went up to the contact station to inquire about House Valley Rock Road to check if it was passable in my car so I could pick up my bike. They said it wasn't because one of the washes was flooded. So eventually after going back to Page and going to Urgent Care to get my toenail checked out, I decided to go the long way round to pick up my bike at Wire Pass Trailhead. I headed South toward the North Rim and then up BLM 1065 to the trailhead. I picked up my bike and then decided to keep going to see if I could get over the wash. Luckily I came across another car that did and then was told another way to get around it. That night my parent's got me a hotel room in Page, where I washed the mud off and had a good night's sleep after yet again another stressful and hazardous adventure! 

Next: Post about my internship with Earthship Biotecture in Taos, New Mexico (where I am currently)