Biking Cozumel Loop

65.7 kilometers/40.8 miles

I wonder how many miles it would be to bike around the island. That’s the thought I had after a few days biking around the town of San Miguel de Cozumel on a borrowed beach cruiser during my two week stay there. Well, the first thought was wondering how far it would be to bike to the east coast of the island where the sandy beaches were since the west coast where I was only had the rocky coastline. When I checked google maps it showed about 15km one way which wasn’t too bad, but not something I could do on a whim, especially not with the small bike without gears I had been using. After an unplanned bike trip up to Colibri, down a dirt road on the Northwest part of the island, I was encouraged to explore more. I did a quick google search and found a blog of other travelers who had biked around the island and when I saw the total loop distance of 62 kilometers I was determined to make a go of it. 40 miles wouldn’t be too difficult if I used my host’s 29” mountain bike.

So one Sunday morning I coated my skin with sunscreen, stuffed my backpack with a beach towel, snacks, and water, and hit the road just before 9AM. I aimed for the coast and headed South moving counter clockwise around the island. A few miles out of town, the traffic slowed and the road split with the highway to my left and the road I was on designated for bikes only. I passed resorts and yet still more resorts, all blocking the prime view of the beaches. I was happy to see so many other cyclists on the road, but most passed me on their speedy road bikes. After a certain point I no longer could see the water and was surrounded by thick jungle. And just as I was needing a break, the jungle came to an abrupt stop and I could see the ocean, I had arrived at Punta Sur, the Southeastern point.

Now along the east coast, I could marvel at the turquoise colored water as I faced a headwind. I stopped at a beach, watched the iguanas scurry away, and sat down for a quick snack break. That flat stretch of bikes-only road along the coast is probably the most beautiful I’ve ever biked. I felt compelled to stop for another break when I saw an abandoned stand and a path down to the beach. There I sat and read with the roar of the waves crashing on the beach down below. Back on the road and mere minutes later I arrived at Coconuts, where I disembarked for a lunch of fish tacos and a cold cerveza. Full of chips and pico I jumped on the bike, but nearing the end of the beach stretch I decided I needed to stop and get in the water. I found some shade under a palm tree, layed out my beach towel, cooled down in the ocean, and relaxed while I dried.

Once the road turned West headed back to town, I biked on the shoulder of the road as cars drove by. I passed the entrance to some Mayan ruins but continued on back to town. I arrived at the casita before 4pm after a day of relaxing and exploring.

I love biking as a way of sightseeing; slowed down and powered by myself I get to observe an area with all my senses. As for the island, I love how the east coast is undeveloped and the views sans hotels give a secluded feel to the area. The beaches were not overly crowded and consisted of a proportionate amount of locals to tourists. I hope it stays like that forever.