US National Parks — Yellowstone National Park

After 10 weeks house/pet sitting in Southern Montana I decided to go check out Yellowstone National Park since it was so close by. However, I did debate whether or not to even visit since only one road in the park is open, from the North entrance to the Northeast Entrance (and you can’t even access the Northeast entrance from Beartooth Hwy cause the road is closed). That road stays open all year but the others will not open until April/May. I wouldn’t be able to go see the famous Old Faithful, any other geysers, or 90% of the park, but I decided to go anyway.

I slept in my mini campervan at a free campground (Carbella) on BLM land along the Yellowstone River just 30 minutes from the North Entrance in Gardiner for three nights while touring the park (freecampsites.net). First day in the park I stopped at the visitor center to get recommendations on areas to cross country ski and snowshoe. I became overwhelmed with maps and all the new information and felt rushed to see everything. I tried to set a game plan to be as efficient as possible with my time so I went to check out the only thermal activity in the area, Mammoth Hot Springs. Steam billowed off the white and rust-colored travertine terraces and the smell of sulfur floated in the air. I had to read and reread the information about how it all worked, and I still didn’t grasp it all, volcanoes, carbon dioxide, travertine…Perhaps what I found most interesting is that the area is constantly changing due to the hot springs creating more terraces all the time.

After walking the boardwalks around the springs I spotted a car with an Alabama plate. I stopped to chat for at least 20 minutes with what turned out to be two University of Alabama students visiting on spring break. It was nice to connect with others so far from home and we talked backpacking and the rowing team.

I then drove the 50 some miles to the Northeast entrance past herds of bison and elk and through the snow covered Lamar Valley. I was told that this area, the Northern Range is home to the majority of the wildlife in the park, and that winter is a great time for wildlife viewing due to bare trees and snow backdrops. I stopped several times to take photos of bison, North America’s largest land mammal, just off the road and even drove past one walking on the road. The next day I would return to my van after cross country skiing with my car surrounded by bison. I was apprehensive to approach since wildlife viewing rules say to stay at least 25 yards away (100 yards away from bears and wolves) but I had no choice!

After driving to Cooke City at the Northeast entrance station I turned around and stopped at a trailhead to get out and cross country ski on the Bannock trail. I only skied about 3 miles but in my novice attempt I had forgotten to attach baskets to my poles and they kept sinking in the deep snow making it difficult to ski. On the way out I marked other areas to ski and visit the next day, and left the park around 6:30.

There was a forecast of snow for the next day, the first day of Spring, so I wanted to get out early. It was spitting snow when I left the campground at 8:30, but it was just cloudy once I reached the park. I drove straight out to Tower Junction and parked my car right on the pavement near the road closed sign. I layered up and put on my nordic ski boots and started cross country skiing on the few inches of snow down the road toward Tower Fall. I immediately came across bison just off the side of the road and felt that if I continued straight I would be too close to them so I took off my skies and walked through grass and snow on the other side to give a wide berth around them. I had started to get a little nervous over a mile in when I noticed some fresh tracks that could have been from a big cat. Since I was by myself and no one else was around I made sure to stop often and scope out my surroundings, and I kept a close eye on tracks. I continued on the road for almost 2.5 miles until I reached an intersection and store (obviously closed). I went down to the overlook to see the mostly frozen Tower Fall, and I was blown away. It was incredible, and to have the whole area to myself was amazing. I didn’t want to leave cause I could have watched that waterfall for hours but once still after moving I started to get cold. On my way back I came across a couple other trekkers, and the return journey went by quick since I was able to coast down most of the way. Definitely was the highlight of my visit!

The rest of the day I stopped at other pull-offs and trailheads to walk or ski down a little ways. I ended the day with a ski around the upper terrace loop at Mammoth Hot Springs. Parts were bare so I ended up having to take off my skis and walk, but I had great views of Fort Yellowstone down below. I learned that the Army was stationed at the park for the first 32 years to help with poachers and illegal activity since Yellowstone was the first national park designated back in 1872.

I left the park around 6PM and it was a ghost town, no one was there. I couldn’t get over the lack of tourists and couldn’t imagine how busy it must get in the summer months. For that reason I think this was a great time to visit even though I was only able to see about 10% of the park. I hope to return some day and see all the geysers.